As well as occurring naturally, though, benzyl alcohol may also be chemically produced from petrochemical sources. Juliette Has A Gun Mad Madame ', Guerlain Chamade As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. By Kilian Back to Black ), Also known as olibanum, frankincense is actually a resin from the Boswellia sacra tree, which grows in the Dhofar area of Oman, as well as Yemen. Others comment that it can smell a bit like the wood in old churches, or Brazil nuts. Clinique Happy And now you know. Diptyque LEau de Neroli Davidoff Cool Water Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Chanel Coco The leaves of banana are sometimes used in perfumery, too: less sweet, more green and subtle. 1 Soft, floaty, feminine: this so-pretty floral note has just a whisper of actual peachy fruitiness about it. HermesTerre dHermes There is an animalic, furry, dirty line. The jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing. Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme A pinch of thyme is more likely to be found in a masculine fragrance than something targeted at women, though it also makes its way into quite a few unisex Colognes. Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Yves Saint Laurent Y, Say cashmeran and somehow you know its going to be soft, smooth, almost snuggly. Used alongside rose, it extends and fixes roses sweetness. WebSeeds: Seeds are common features in the world of perfume making, and the most common ones include: anise, nutmeg, tonka beans, coriander, cocoa, carrot seed, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. Le Labo Labdanum 18 Yves Saint Laurent Paris. According to the Australian Orchid Society, "Old Totonac lore has it that Xanat, the young daughter of the Mexican fertility goddess, loved a Totonac youth. Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Beige (Do please completely ignore the word rose in its name.). Serge LutensL`Eau Serge Lutens With their sweet and vanilla-y softness, quite a few gourmand fragrances list sugar as a note. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. Chanel Allure Jean-Paul Gaultier Classique Bay laurel is evergreen (where would our gardens be without it? Paisley shawls were traditionally layered with patchouli leaves in transit. During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. Tart and sweet. Givenchy Hot Couture Eau de Parfum Kai Kai. How did the tangerine get its name? Yardley April Violets, Refreshing, subtly sweet or positively jam-like: blueberry has different facets which perfumers have the power to play up. Its incredibly versatile, in a perfumers hands: it softens, balances, fixes (adds staying power and keeps a fragrance on the skin, while stopping other short-lived ingredients from disappearing too fast). Creed Jasmal An oil from the Indian sandal tree, sandalwood is one of the oldest known perfumery ingredients, that is commonly used as a base note. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. 'It's often used to surround jasmine, in white floral bouquets,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. This spice has been in use for thousands of years: Pliny described an unguent of fenugreek, and the roots were also used in early Arab perfumery. Floris Edwardian Bouquet Tom Ford Neroli Portofino. (And we just love the way that perfumers rise to challenges like this), PS Oakmoss has a near-relation, known as tree moss - Evernia Furfuracea - which grows on pine trees, has a turpentine-y scent before its blended, and is also very highly-prized among perfumers. Dior JAdore Dior Chew on it to combat wind. Since gourmand fragrances took off, bananas been used more widely: the sweetness of the juicy fruit note gives a good-enough-to-eat quality. Jovoy ParisL'Enfant Terrible. Fragrances with high levels of ambergris (natural or synthetic) can also smell salty. A well-known family of garden shrubs, syringe bursts into a froth of white flowers in late spring, filling the air with its jasmine-like sweetness which is what perfumers capture, often alongside other white florals, but also in chypre creations. These are the types of challenges which perfumers face: the back-stories you cant imagine, when you un-stopper a bottle! In traditional perfumery youd use it to blend with the top and mid notes, youd leave the mixture to macerate for months, to give it weight and depth, and to help keep the lighter molecules from flying away too rapidly. Sprinkle it on your smoked salmon. Cartier Le Must de Cartier ', Comme des Garons Black Pepper By Kilian Love by Kilian Goutal Eau du Sud Its summer in a bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, but (unsurprisingly) sweet at the same time. Vera Wang Lovestruck, Zing! ), to lighten the woodiness. Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. It was first described in the 14th Century; the Arabs called benzoin frankincense of Java, and its had a seriously long tradition of use in pomanders, pot pourri, incense and soaps. Perfume Bottles Auction 2023: The worlds most fabulous flaons could be yours! Lavender works well with scents like patchouli, bergamot, rosemary, and orange In fragrance, though, peony is a fresh, soft floral note: uplifting, calming, working brilliantly alongside other floral notes, especially the equally delicately-petalled rose. Miller Harris La Fume Moschino Couture Its extracted by steam distillation of freshly-picked flowers, which must be a gorgeous task. After those rhizomes have aged, theyre powdered and then steam-distilled, producing orris oil, which solidifies into something known as orris butter (or orris concrete), because of its oily, yellow texture and appearance. Aldehydes may be found in natural materials rose, citronella, cinnamon bark and orange rind, for instance but are also a family of synthetic chemicals, formed (heres the science bit) by the partial oxidation of primary alcohols. Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. And funnily enough, the scents somewhere in between the two, too, Britney Spears Fantasy More commonly, ink is a synthetic novelty ingredient, used mostly in mens fragrances to give a mysterious hint of solvent or damp moss, or (romantically) to conjure up the vision of someone writing love letters, perhaps, with a good old-fashioned quill. And its probably one of the most easily-recognised perfume ingredients of all, Dior Addict Tauer Perfumes08 Une Rose Chypre 'Thenatural extract is tooth-shaking sweet, seemingly (of course, it isntin reality),' explains perfumer Andy Tauer, 'and smells like a raspberry under LSD influence. And there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages. Yves Saint Laurent Paris Versace Versus. Crabtree & Evelyn India Hicks Island Living Spider Lily Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville PradaNo9 Benjoin Donna KaranBlack Cashmere Escentric Molecules Molecule 03. Ylang yang is also luscious, buttery, a little apricot-y and when smelled neat is a tad medicinal, too. Yes, if we eat it: nectarines are of course smooth-skinned, and have a whiter flesh. C12 well, thats lilac or violets. Theyre also often left to produce fruit, which can be infused to extract an intense berry scent. Grs Cabotine 'Tobacco: loved by many when lit, smoke inhaled, brain bright and crisp. Goutal Rose Pompon Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Cdre Citral is pure freshness, and used for that effect. Bvlgari BLV Crabtree & Evelyn Sandalwood Philosophy Pure Grace Ivy was also carried by women who wanted to attract good fortune. Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet And in liquid perfumes, a note of incense adds a richness, intensity and a touch of the exotic. Gucci Guilty Britney Spears Believe Library of Fragrance Frankincense Bobbi Brown Baby Its a key ingredient in Bay Rum aftershave/scent, and often used in mens perfumery but also to spice up a chypre fragrance, or in a mysterious ambre, Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from the LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum augustifolium. Britney Spears Curious Floris China Rose Cardamoms been spicing up perfumery (and the incense trade) at least since Egyptian times, and was one of the key fragrance plants used in Greek perfumes. Its rare, and seriously expensive, and even endangered: as its become more popular, high-quality oud is becoming hard to source. Chanel Coco The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn: perfume actually gets its name from per fumum, or through smoke. Dior Dolce Vita Most of us are unlikely to smell it growing wild, but apparently its deliciously, delicately sweet, in flower form. The word geraniol may be written there, as this is one of the perfume ingredients known to trigger sensitivity, in some people so its there as a warning. Once cut, theyre turned frequently to prevent them breaking down too quickly. Diptyque LEau de Tarocco The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays shared her thoughts with us on mandarin: 'Its childhood Christmases for me. Jovoy Paris Chypre An aroma compound that has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the late 1950s. It also has the rosy notes of tea leaves," says perfumer Jacques Huclier. Escentric Molecules Molecule No. Boucheron Boucheron A highly important ingredient in perfumes. Herms Osmanthe Yunnan Fresh Love Orange blossom and neroli are a bit confusing, as ingredients. Its one of the most desirable firewoods, producing a highly aromatic smoke thats brilliant for smoking meat and tobacco and which perfumers seek to capture and recreate, quite aside from the delicate crispness of the plants much better-known fruit. Guerlain Nahma They like slow-moving or still water: lakes, or the edges of rivers, and there are dozens of different varieties all beautiful, and all short-lived: each flower blooms, closes at night, and lasts for just a few days. Balmain Ivoire Succulent but somehow creamy and milky. Thus, it can be combined with all sorts of other notes: Think flowers, roses. Actually, fennel produces TWO types of oil: bitter fennel, and sweet fennel, which can be used as top notes OR heart notes, blending well with lavender, rose, geranium, basil, lemon, rosemary, violet leaf and sandalwood. Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Floris Honey Oud Nice myth, though. Or do you get a whiff of almond? (Headspace technology is usually used to capture the scent: the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). synthetic) to evoke the sticky sweetness of dried figs, dates and apricots. Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. (Thats because it also helps digestion, as well as enhancing flavours. Its the leaves which can be distilled: the resulting oil is very high in a chemicall called eugenol. The blood refers to the deep crimson flesh of this delicious Citrus sinensis orange, which flourishes in Italy. Kenzo Amour Lancme O de Lancme (Yes, think concentrated cat pee.) Then the leaves are either CO2-extracted, or steam-distilled. Solid and as uncomfortable as can be. Carita Carita Eau de Parfum (Other orchids - obviously not used in perfumery - can stink of rotten meat, or faeces. Goutal ParisLe Muguet Versace Versace. Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Woman Este Lauder Pleasures Diluted, blended, civet morphs into something altogether lustily musky and inviting, adding warmth and radiance to floral scents especially, and working as a fixative. It smells sweet, but not as cloying as hyacinth. Lancme Miracle Intense From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. Production of this beautiful powdery, soft, floral, elegant note requires great patience hence the hefty price-tag. The early fragrant use of the flowers was in pomanders. Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. When I take the lid off and sniff, I cant help letting out a long appreciative mmmmmmmmm. "Crystalline in form and snow-white in color, coumarins presence in fragrances is ubiquitous. Anne Marie Orsini (also known as Anna Maria de la Tremoille, and originally French), fell in love with the scent of neroli, which fragranced the air in spring. Francis Kurkdjian APOM Pour Femme Crabtree & Evelyn Lily LOccitane en Provence Th Vert la Menthe Byredo Accord Oud With its slightly musky, woody, aromatic, earthy, warm and sensual scent, jatamansi also featured in body oils and unguents, in Roman times. The almost bitter green leaf offers us a sense of cool and shade. I love the fruity effect of blackcurrant bud, which boosts juiciness in the top note of a fragrance. Were much, much more than just a website: were a also a subscription organisation for perfume-lovers, offering events (including meet the nose events), courses, sampling opportunities, and a beautiful regular downloadable magazine, The Scented Letter. Lady Gaga Fame Oscar de la Renta Live in Love "Musk is the fragrance that is left behind once the other aromatic notes have disappeared. Wine was added to those ingredients to make a long-lasting perfume, which was also used to scent gloves known as Frangipani gloves. "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance.". Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood But long before that, myrrh was among the very first perfume ingredients used in prayer as well as perfumery itself: as far back as 3,700 years ago, priests and believers believed that the smoke of incense was the only thing which could cross the barrier between earth and heaven. Valentino Valentina. Miller Harris Fleur Ambre Caudalie Zeste de Vigne Marc Jacobs Honey Through a process of fractionation separating the different elements of an individual ingredient, and removing the potential sensitiser its possible to get an ingredient thats much closer to the oakmoss we know and loved. Jo Malone London Blackberry and Bay, Zing! (In aromatherapy, it dispels tension.) Diptyque LEau Trois If you smell different concentrated absolutes (the oily liquids created through macerating the jasmine flowers), they have their own characters: some smell medicinal, some sweet, some musky, some green. ClarinsEauRessourcante Because violet petals are really reluctant to give up their scent naturally. Dior JAdore Almost spicy, so green and sweet, with hints of lemon: thats lily of the valley and a more spring-like scent its hard to imagine. There may be a touch of black locust in there. Thyme gets its name from the Greek word meaning to fumingate and its fragrant use goes back that far: the Greeks used it as a powerful incense in their temples (it was even thought to repel snakes), while the Arab perfumers also used it in their recipes. Serge Lutens Datura Noir Marigolds the name comes from the phrase Marys gold, and refers to the Virgin Mary are members of the sunflower family, grown throughout the world. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. Narciso Rodriguez Essence (And dont blame us if youre busted sniffing the fruitbowl!) (Castor, by the way, gets its name from the Greek word for beaver. And though its more popular in Indian perfumes, papyrus can still be enjoyed in some stunning contemporary scents. "Ozone has been used for many years but really exploded after the creation of L'eau D'Issey in 1992. But in modern perfume creation, hawthorns recreated synthetically - adding freshness and a sparkle to several well-known and a raft of gorgeous nichecreations. This combo is unbeatable. Go figure. (Jasmines one of the priciest ingredients in perfumery.) Este Lauder Private Collection A gum resin from a tree found in Arabia and Eastern Africa and also known as olibanum, frankincense is one of the oldest materials used for fragrance in recorded history. Like quite a few ingredients, though, heliotrope/heliotropins use has been reduced and restricted lately by the International Fragrance Associations regulations (IFRA for short), and some iconic, heavy-on-the-heliotrope fragrances including LArtisan Parfumeurs glorious Jour de Fte have sadly been discontinued, as a result. Isabella RosselliniManifesto Heres the science bit: 1,3-Benzodioxole-5-carbaldehyde, piperonyl aldehyde, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzaldehyde and piperonal are all names for heliotropin. Aveda Chakra 6 Intuition Yardley English Lavender. The Greeks and Romans used it too, often with its near-relation cassia. ', Amouage Tribute This yes spicy ingredient comes from the dried, unripe berries of the Pimenta dioica (pimento), an evergreen tree that flourishes in the Caribbean, Mexico, and Central America. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Fendi Fan di Fendi Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Unable to marry him due to her divine nature, she transformed herself into a plant that would provide pleasure and happiness that plant was the Vanilla vine. Indeed, there are so many varieties and cross-overs (see below for a selection from Wikipedia's extensive page), that to date, no one author has successfully categorised them all. Givenchy Ange ou Demon Chlo LoveChlo In perfumery, it lends itself most beautifully to Ambres, working its exotic magic in many much-loved scents. 'Of course there isn't literally any deadly nightshade in the fragrance - but the overall effect of the perfume I created is deep, intense, intoxicating'. Maison Francis Kurkdjian la rose Nina Ricci LAir du Temps As May swings round, the Crataegus monogynatree bursts into a froth of sweet-scented blooms, which have long been symbolically linked in the Pagan tradition with fertility and sexual abandonment. But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! undecalactone) smells delectably peach-like and edible, and we defy most untrained noses to tell the difference. Roger & Gallet Jean-Marie Farina Yves Saint Laurent Belle dOpium. 5 "Green, floral, powdery, and honeyed, too, it embellishes any perfume with its beauty.. (The seeds, meanwhile, can also be used in pot pourri.). (And theyre in good company: Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles were early habitus of this now world-famous bar, with its strangely low seats and tables that almost make you feel youre at a dolls tea party.) Christian Dior Miss DiorCherie LEau Kate Moss Kate Floris Stephanotis Its also grown in southern France and in Cte d'Ivoire for the essential oil (and in in southern Turkey for its marmalade), Jo Malone London Oud and Bergamot But as with many unlikely perfume ingredients, add it in the teensiest dose, and hemlock can add depth and intrigue. Its used in Indian cooking and also as a medicinal not surprisingly, as a repellent. The most Goutal Paris Eau du Sud Ink? Dolce & GabbanaThe One for Men This native of Central and South Asia, a relative of hops, is now probably grown in every country of the world (albeit quite often in attics under gro-lights). Hugo Boss Boss Orange And jasmine. They're like berry clay that you can form and shape in all directions. (Lots of perfume notes work synergistically in this way, which is why perfumery is such a complex art.). "Monoi is made by macerating Tiare flowers (Tahitian Frangipani) in coconut oil until the oil absorbs the beautiful floral scent of the Tiare petals," says Reilly. It is more theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale. Frederic Malle Noir Epices Highly aromatic, merely brushing against the dark green leaves releases the potent scent, all varieties of the plant have some common characteristics - mostly perennial, mint simply adores to be near water, pools and in partial shade. Guerlain Cuit Beluga Its been used in fragrance for millennia: the ancient Egyptians burned ambergris as incense, while the Chinese referred to ambergris as dragons spittle fragrance. Nasomatto Pardon (It helps to dispel parasites hence its name) In fragrances, wormwood is also bitter and green and so used with the lightest touch, generally (in mens but also womens scents), because its pungent and intensely herby. DiorLes Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorella (Which weve filed under F.) Lilies have been used in perfumery since ancient times: they were very well-loved in Egypt, as part of a perfumed ointment based on the flowers of 2000 lilies, while the ancient Greeks used Madonna lilies to make a perfume called Susinon. ', Britney Spears Circus Fantasy A Bellini cocktail is a must for many thousands of visitors to Venice, who since 1948 have flocked to Harrys Bar in Venice to sip on their speciality: a cocktail of sparkling white Prosecco and white peach puree. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. Clive Christian V for Women Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir Allegedly, in 1525, a Saronno church commissioned one of Leonardo da Vincis pupils, artist Bernardino Luini, to daub their sanctuary with frescoes. 5 that changed everything literally sending perfumery on a new, modern trajectory, opening up a world of richness and strength. Its delectably intoxicating, in fragrances and perfumers love to blend it with sandalwood, bergamot, clary sage and other floral notes. Guerlain LHeure Bleu (Such complexity, in a single ingredient: no wonder many perfumers love it.) But although violet has been giving up its sweetness to perfumers since the time of early Arab perfumers, who perfected a technique for distilling the oil, it was Empress Marie Louise Bonaparte who really put Viola odorata on the scent-map, establishing the violet industry in Parma which thrives to this day. Acacia. Grasse jasmine contains the highest natural levels of indole one of the reasons its the priciest jasmine in the world. His father prayed for Orchis to be restored, but instead the gods transformed him into the flower we know today as the orchid. GoutalQuel Amour Illolahia says that ambergris is typically used as a fixative in perfumery, and has a subtle but long-lasting odor. Lanvin Arpge Commonly, ambrette is used as a substitute for true musk. Caron Tabac Blond Calvin Klein Eternity Launched in the 1990s, calone recreates the honey-like, watery qualities of the delectable fruit a relation of squashes and cucumbers - which originated in Africa and south-west Asia.
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